Benley - A Vietnamese Kitchen in Long Beach, and how I learned the history of Pho

I'm not going to go on at length about Benley, because of two reasons: (1) much has been said about this restaurant on the blogosphere, and if you want to read some of these thoughts, you can go to clayfood.blogspot.com or just google Benley Long Beach and read professional and lay reviews of the place at length, and (2) the owner doesn't really care for blogs about his place, probably because so many bloggers come in and take pics of the food and blog right there on their handheld devices, and he thinks it is silly and takes away from the enjoyment of the food. I agree and I would never blog while dining out, but I have been known to snap a pic or two. But I didn't do this at Benley!

Suffice it to say that if you want some Asian food in Long Beach, you are limited to Korean sushi from Yen on 2nd Street in Belmont Shore, and Vietnamese French fusion at Benley in a strip mall at the corner of Norwalk and Wardlow. Tucked away in this tiny location, Benley offers up some great eating to the few people who have found it. It seats only about 30 people. The offerings are tasty, aromatic, unique, and perfect for sharing, family style. And did I mention, very wine-friendly foods (drink German or French wines with these foods, this is the key to happiness).

Now, onto the history of Pho. This is where it gets interesting. Benley owner Fong told me about this, and if he had not, I would be ignorant about this important food-history note possibly forever. Did you know that Vietnamese Pho (pronounce "Fuh") was from the French???

He shocked me with this. He said that the French colonialists brought over a beef-based soup that is like the soup for French onion soup, and I said HUH? To me, there is little resemblance of French onion soup, with its overflowing bubbling hot gruyere cheese atop big crouton over a dark broth that I thought was basically caramellized onion water and a Asian rice noodle soup with thin slices of rare beef and aromatic basil and bean sprouts and lime and what have you.

But yes, he continued! It is French!! He said even the name comes from the French "feu" which means "fire" from the soupy stew dish called pot-au-feu. Wow! Pho = feu!

So I did some google searching, and learned, he is right! Pho is a relatively nouveau Vietnamese cuisine, brought over by the French, who introduced an aromatic and rich beef stock to the Vietnamese. There were noodle soups in Vietname prior to the French, but they were like in the rest of Asia, made from pork. Beef stock was a new thing, as cattle were not used for food, but for farm work. But according to this story, this new beef stock, with its aromatic seasonings of maybe caramellized onions and things, intrigued the local Vietnamese, and they adapted it by adding local ingredients: rice noodles. The original Pho, which according to the internet source I read, came from Hanoi in the northern part of Vietnam, and it was just that - beef soup and rice noodles. When North and South Vietnam split, the southern Vietnamese began adapting the recipe and adding all those extra fresh veggies that we associate with Pho - those side items that come raw and get added in.

I loved this, this rich history of a noodle dish! Maybe some of you out there have heard this story before, but not me. I enjoyed it very much. Who knew that Pho was feu and had some French roots? Who knew that Vietnamese cuisine was by definition fusion? Who knew?

Easy like Sunday Morning Tripe

Just got back from Sunday brunch at El Torito on PCH Highway, on Long Beach. El Torito is nestled among a bunch of chain restaurants, and we have never found a reason to go there until today, when our good local friends were having a going-away party as they are moving out of state. Their friends organized the brunch there, so all we had to do was show up.

It was really nice. "Champagne," which is really a typical brunch sparkling wine of some sort, was poured immediately upon seating, and continuously poured. Buffet style, the brunch offered an array of Mexican goodies, such as enchiladas, beans, Spanish rice, custom-made tacos, and Menudo. We noticed many people enjoying the Menudo, so Johan and I, being lovers of tripe and other interesting meats, went for a couple of big bowls ourselves.

It was great! Seasoned just right, the broth was flavorful with hints of chili, herbs, tomato, and rich meat. The tripe was tender, flavorful, and just a bit chewy, which any tripe lover would want. It was the best dish in the brunch. I'm not sure I could have had a more authentic Menudo elsewhere. We enjoyed it so much even though we weren't hung over!

We spoke to a fellow diner and asked her how Menudo is made, since we don't know, ie. we wondered if some stock is made to flavor the soup beyond just tripe. She coyly asked, "Are you sure you want to know?" When we assured her that we like tripe and know that it is intestine, she answered that it is made by boiling guts for 14 hours, along with some finely chopped special type of chili, plus oregano, tomato paste and some other herbs and spices. I asked if there was another meat or bones used to make the stock, and she said, you don't have to, but you can add bones or meat, but they have to be from the feet (pig's feet). I nodded approvingly, "Ah, yes, so you can get the gelatinous thickness to the broth." Ah, yes. Now you're talking.

I also enjoyed a chicken taco and some rice and beans, which were all seasoned well and good, though of course there are more authentic versions elsewhere. There was also an omlet bar for those who wished to have this brunch standard. There was also many desserts available, including chocolate cake, churros, and jello.

On the whole, I would not hesitate to take a family from out of town to the El Torito Sunday brunch. It has a festive, fun atmosphere, great service, a lot of choices, and really decent food for a chain operation. Plus, I think the food type is more suitable for a weekend brunch than a dinner, but that could just be me. So next time you have family from out of town, think El Torito! (Did that sound too much like a commercial?)

South Bay Breakfast

Breakfast is like a pair of old shoes. It's a comfortable meal. A little boring, pretty worn out and only complete with the familiar aroma of coffee and bacon. Trying something new for breakfast can be like squeezing your foot into hard tight leather that still needs a few weeks of blister building stretching before it feels right. And so I present to you a couple of comfortable old shoes for breakfast.

Misto Caffe - Yeah, I know it's spelled like it should be on 3rd and La Cienega, but it's on Hawthorne just up the hill from PCH. Hardly an exclusive neighborhood, unless Texaco, Bob's pool supply, and Michiko's Hair Salon are on someone's "A" list. True this is where middle class Torrance passes off to wealthy Palos Verdes, so maybe that explains the spelling. Misto is also hidden from the street in a little mini mall that features a number of businesses for suburbanites who have just a little too much money on their hands (a jewelry store, interior design office, hair salon, knitting shop, etc.). It's easy to miss, but when you hit Palos Verdes Blvd. turn back - you've gone too far.

If weather permits (when does weather not permit in LA?) sit on the patio. Misto is primarily a bakery so you'll love the mini-muffins and scones they bring - gratis. The fact is, I love Eggs Benedict and most any Benedict-like variation. For me Misto is a breakfast heaven. Eggs Benedict, Sirloin Medallion Benedict, Crab Cake Benedict, Salmon Benedict, Vege Benedict... it's crazy. Anything that they can fit on an English Muffin. And they're all good. I've tried them all. Hitomi usually has an omelet. They do the basics - salmon omelet, Mediterranean Omelet, Vege Omelet, whatever... and they're never a disappointment either. The service is always good, and those little muffins are the little muffin rulers! in my book Misto Scores 4 old shoes.

The Admiral Risty - Out where Hawthorne Blvd. Meets the Pacific Ocean, there is a nearly forgotten strip mall that features the Starbucks with the best view in LA County. Next door you'll find the Admiral Risty - Average age: 60+, average car in the parking lot:
Lincoln Continental, or 1980's Caddy. The Admiral Risty is only open Sunday for brunch, and no one seems to know about it. You're likely to get a table in front of the window. The view is unobstructed ocean, what could be better for your digestion? (the picture is from their website - I didn't take it) The service here is old school. the people are small town friendly and pretty attentive. The coffee is actually fresh ground. They serve banana bread or like breads for appetizers and the menu rides the thin line between breakfast and lunch (it is Brunch after all, isn't it?) I always get the seafood crepes, because I find I am really just a creature of habit. They're good though. Hitomi usually opts for lunch and tends to lean toward the Seared Ahi. That's good too! Yup Risty for brunch is another 4 old shoe experience.

The Admiral Risty, 31250 Palos Verdes Drive West, Rancho Palos Verdes

Misto Caffe 24558 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance, CA 90505